Vietnamese take-out party in yr mouth

It's disgustingly hot in NYC today, currently in the 90s, and if the little weather box in my iGoogle is to be believed we could reach 102° F. If you are the type to fight heat with heat — as many people living in hot climates do — you should know about V-Nam Cafe's spicy bánh mì. It's made with sriracha and both jalapeno and serrano peppers and I opted to take a couple spoonfuls of yogurt afterwards, something I almost never resort to. Had I bothered to consult any reviews before trying it I would've seen the flaming-hot warning cartoon sandwich in the Village Voice, but it caught me by surprise and was all the more appreciated for it. I'll definitely order it again soon. The non-spicy foods seem well worth exploring too. So far I've only tried the vermicelli with spring roll, which could've used more herbs but was springy, fresh-tasting, and crisp in all the right places. I'm not perverse enough to go for pho today but as soon as the weather cools down a bit I'll try it.

spicy bánh mì with optional fried egg

vermicelli with spring roll

a new you at the Indian grocery

Developing your personality is important but don't forget the fattie pills.

Kalustyan's is great of course but I still enjoy shopping at the Indian grocery in my old neighborhood, which is smaller, dustier and more cramped. It's in the East Village, on 1st Ave between 5th and 6th Streets. I've always called it "the Indian grocery" because it's had a series of names. It's presently called Dual but it was Dowel before that, and there are at least two other names I can't recall now. (I'm pretty sure it wasn't Dial or Duel but wouldn't wager on this). I went there this past weekend to pick up urad dal for the half dozen or so varieties of sundal I want to make right now, but don't get too excited because my fresh coconut (and my appetite) will likely be exhausted by two or three. As ever, I found myself distracted by the wide selection, and also came home with a fresh supply of cardamom (both green and black), asafoetida, Kerala vadu mango pickle, and "super Darjeeling." I didn't go for the digestive pills, though I do wonder if they banish momentary feelings of tubbiness. Instead I picked up a little jar of Tibet Snow, which I hope will give me a remote, frosty, mystical air on sweltering subway platforms this summer.

  

Tibet Snow front and back. Related (and quick, short story) reading:

"Tebic" by Sylvia Townsend Warner.

If you are naturally remote and frosty and really only care about the groceries, you should know that Dual stocks my favorite rice, Lal Qilla basmati. (Kalustyan's has it too but only in ten-pound bags). I'm not a particularly skilled cooker of rice but it always comes out with perfectly separate grains like this, ready for its close-up.